Last month the crew at Moe’s Garage began the task of replacing the outer roof skin on our ’69 C-10 project truck with help from the folks at LMC Truck. We continue the process this month by replacing the rusted header panel and welding in a patch panel where the sunroof once was. As with just about every project, whether it be a custom truck or a home remodel, the further you progress, the more ideas you come up with. Before you know it, you’ve gone further than you had originally planned. As the tape lines may indicate, we’re taking this project one step further and chopping the top. This will solve two problems: It will level out the roof line (GM intentionally raked the roof from front to back to help with water run-off), and it will allow us to better smooth out the area where the rain gutters once were. Anytime a plan changes, you need to regroup and adjust the task accordingly. So after doing some careful measurements we were back to work, and while this may seem like a strange way to chop a top, having the outer skin off will actually help us when it comes to the final fit and finish of the roof skin.
Next month we’ll put our measurements to the test by taking a few inches off the top and shaping and installing the new roof skin.
Sources
LMC Truck
Dept. STTR
15450 W. 108th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
800.LMC.TRUCK
(800.562.8782)
www.LMCtruck.com (http://www NULL.lmctruck NULL.com/)
Moe’s Garage
Dept. STTR
1249 E. Burville Rd., Unit #3
Crete, IL 60417
www.moesgarage.com (http://www NULL.moesgarage NULL.com/)
-
- Starting where we left off in Part I, we welded up the now shaved rain gutters and ground them smooth.
-
- Moving on to the inner header panel, we ground off the spot welds along the windshield frame, marked and cut the original sheet metal to fit the new panel from LMC Truck, and removed it.
-
- After cleaning the area up with a grinder, we test-fit the new panel and corrected any gaps.
-
- Once everything was fitted properly, we clamped it down before beginning the task of welding it in permanently.
-
- Moving to the inside of the cab, we drilled out the areas to be spot welded and sanded off the primer on the new header panel so we would get a good weld.
-
- Once we were satisfied with the fit, we started welding the area up, making sure to move our clamps around to pull the metal tight prior to welding. For added strength, we chose to weld the area solid rather than simply tack weld it. To accomplish this, we moved around to prevent the panels from warping from the heat.
-
- Once we were satisfied with the fit, we started welding the area up, making sure to move our clamps around to pull the metal tight prior to welding. For added strength, we chose to weld the area solid rather than simply tack weld it. To accomplish this, we moved around to prevent the panels from warping from the heat.
-
- Here you can see the new panel welded in place.
-
- One other area that needed a little attention was the upper windshield frame. Rather than replace the entire piece, we simply welded up the holes and ground them smooth.
-
- One other area that needed a little attention was the upper windshield frame. Rather than replace the entire piece, we simply welded up the holes and ground them smooth.
-
- One other area that needed a little attention was the upper windshield frame. Rather than replace the entire piece, we simply welded up the holes and ground them smooth.
-
- We simply taped a piece of paper up to the hole and traced around it, in order to make the piece that will fill in the area that was once occupied by the sunroof. Then we cut out the paper and transferred the shape to a new piece of steel. We used 14-gauge steel so that we can mount an amplifier to the roof later on in the build.
-
- We simply taped a piece of paper up to the hole and traced around it, in order to make the piece that will fill in the area that was once occupied by the sunroof. Then we cut out the paper and transferred the shape to a new piece of steel. We used 14-gauge steel so that we can mount an amplifier to the roof later on in the build.
-
- We simply taped a piece of paper up to the hole and traced around it, in order to make the piece that will fill in the area that was once occupied by the sunroof. Then we cut out the paper and transferred the shape to a new piece of steel. We used 14-gauge steel so that we can mount an amplifier to the roof later on in the build.
-
- After a little grinding the new steel was ready to be clamped down and welded up. We chose to weld everything solid for added strength and rigidity.
-
- After a little grinding the new steel was ready to be clamped down and welded up. We chose to weld everything solid for added strength and rigidity.
-
- After we finished welding the replacement panel in place, we ground everything smooth, making sure nothing would keep the outer skin from fitting properly.
-
- After we finished welding the replacement panel in place, we ground everything smooth, making sure nothing would keep the outer skin from fitting properly.
-
- Next we used a wire brush on the entire roof and blew everything off before applying a coat of Rust Converter to the bare metal. When using this type of coating do not remove the rust completely. It is designed to stick to rough and rusty surfaces.
-
- Next we used a wire brush on the entire roof and blew everything off before applying a coat of Rust Converter to the bare metal. When using this type of coating do not remove the rust completely. It is designed to stick to rough and rusty surfaces.
