We got our project ’42 Ford pickup, Kirby, running strong, stopping short and steering like a champ, and with all that work to make the truck road worthy, it was time to do something about our seat problem. The previous owner had cut a chunk of plywood the same shape as the seat riser and then bolted a pair of low-back buckets to it that he salvaged out of some mid-‘70s GM car along with a set of lap belts. Unfortunately, the piece of plywood that sat atop the stock seat riser was never bolted down. The weight of the seats did a pretty good job of holding everything in place. But with our improved 4-wheel disc brakes, it turned the seats, the wood it was mounted to and the people strapped to the seats into a giant projectile inside the cab every time the brakes were applied. It was funny the first time it happened, but by the time we got to the freeway the first time it had become painfully obvious that doing something about the seat situation had just moved to the top of the to-do list.
So we called up our buddy, Andy Radi of Radi’s Custom Upholstery in Garden Grove, California, to see what our options were. Andy asked us a series of questions about the truck and we came to the conclusion that we were going to be better off ordering a new seat frame and foam from a company called Glide Engineering in Rancho Cucamonga, California. Glide actually had a brand new seat frame that was designed for our odd-ball truck (P/N 9141-C) and the foam that went with it (P/N F-26-35) and another cool part about the seat is that the base is hinged so that when it is unlocked using the lever in the driver’s side, it folds up exposing the ample storage under the seat. We plan on relocating the battery and the fuse panel to the space under the seat after we move the fuel tank to a spot under the bed. So we ordered the frame and the foam and had it shipped directly to Radi’s, where Andy and his crew were waiting to treat us to a lesson on how to upholster it using some traditional tuck-n-roll inserts.
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- This is a pretty good example of a “before” photo.
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- We aren’t in the habit of showing the wrong way to do something, but this was too comical not to show what inspired us to replace the seat in our project ’42. The thinking was sound, but as you can see here, the plywood was never bolted to the base, and with out recent upgrade to four-wheel Wilwood disc brakes, it turned the whole shooting match into a giant projectile inside the cab every time we applied the brakes.
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- When we opened the heavy box we fount this brand new seat frame from Glide that had an adjustable back, bottom frame that bolted directly to our stock seat riser and then with the flick of a lever the springs that make up the base of the seat tilt forward to expose the area under the seat that can be used for storage.
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- When we opened the heavy box we fount this brand new seat frame from Glide that had an adjustable back, bottom frame that bolted directly to our stock seat riser and then with the flick of a lever the springs that make up the base of the seat tilt forward to expose the area under the seat that can be used for storage.
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- Then we opened the light box and found all of the foam for the seat.
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- The crew at Radi’s then whipped out the four red tuck-n-roll sections that they had already made for the seat inserts. They made some marks on the foam with a Sharpie, took a couple of measurements to see exactly how large to cut the black vinyl and where the seams were going to be, scribbled some notes, and were off to the cutting table.
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- Using the cryptic notes, the crew at Radi’s cut some patterns out of poster board and then transferred them to the vinyl using chalk to show where the cuts needed to be made.
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- After all of the pieces were stitched together, the cover for the base was stretched over the new foam and hog rings were used to fasten the upholstery to the frame.
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- After all of the pieces were stitched together, the cover for the base was stretched over the new foam and hog rings were used to fasten the upholstery to the frame.
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- Once the bottom is covered, where all of the seams on the bottom are is transferred to the foam for the back so they all line up perfectly, then more measurements are taken, more poster board is fashioned into patterns, and there is more cutting and stitching to make the cover for the back of the seat.
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- Once the bottom is covered, where all of the seams on the bottom are is transferred to the foam for the back so they all line up perfectly, then more measurements are taken, more poster board is fashioned into patterns, and there is more cutting and stitching to make the cover for the back of the seat.
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- To create the bolster at the top of the seat, a piece of stiff rod is slid into a pocket that has been sewn in between the top section of black vinyl and the bottom panels, and then it is connected to the foam back in a slit with a series of hog rings.
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- To create the bolster at the top of the seat, a piece of stiff rod is slid into a pocket that has been sewn in between the top section of black vinyl and the bottom panels, and then it is connected to the foam back in a slit with a series of hog rings.
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- The rest of the cover is rolled down over the rest of the seat back and the seat really begins to take shape.
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- The cover for the back of the seat is closed up with another series of hog rings installed with hog ring pliers.
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- Before the bottom of the seat is reinstalled on the frame, the plastic caps that are used to cover the hinge mechanism are wrapped in black vinyl to match the new upholstery on the seat.
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- Before the bottom of the seat is reinstalled on the frame, the plastic caps that are used to cover the hinge mechanism are wrapped in black vinyl to match the new upholstery on the seat.
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- Once the seat is all bolted back together, it is ready to replace the seat in our ’42, and with its classic upholstery it will look right at home between the doors.
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- Once the seat is all bolted back together, it is ready to replace the seat in our ’42, and with its classic upholstery it will look right at home between the doors.
SOURCES
Glide Engineering
DEPT. WOR
10662 Pullman Court
Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730
909.944.9556
www.glideengineering.com
Radi’s Custom Upholstery
Dept. WOR
10562 Stanford Avenue
Garden Grove, CA 92840
714.534.2915
Tags: 1942 Ford, bench seat, Glide Engineering, Radi's Upholstery, traditional seat, tuck-n-roll
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