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The driver's side window suddenly became temperamental this week, deciding stop dead periodically when going up and down. So time for a new window motor. The job wasn't too bad as the rivet locations on the inner door panel were already drilled out exposing them. Drilled out the rivet and replaced it with a new motor using some small bolts and nuts with the kit, and tada! Back in the power window business. Removing the reinstalling the door panel took longer than the actual swap. I took the opportunity to insulate some of the door lock mechanism that had taken to rattling when a good tune came on the radio. So now it's all buttoned up tight, working and rattle-free.

Also was finally able to find the time to replace the stock lower control arms with some tubular J&M units and relocation bracket to correct the LCA geometry thrown out of whack when the car was lowered. These LCA's use a 3 piece spherical poly bushing that allows the LCA to articulate when cornering, keeping both sides of the rear planted on the road in a turn, but still provides increased stiffness in a straight launch providing more traction. Straight forward install, and by the seat-of-my-pants testing, it works well. The ride is more firm, but not noticeably harsher than the stamped steel OEM pieces with rubber bushings. In cornering, the rear does feel like it is coming around with the car rather than being pulled around by the car. Launches have no wheelhop and better traction, although I still leave nice strips of rubber on the road.

Thanks to Marty D of Marty's Auto Works in Longwood, FL for help on the install of both!