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Cars > LarsBud’s Garage > Blog

 

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LarsBud

M –49

 
 

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Ultra Racing

By LarsBud


Well it’s done, my Ultra Racing front strut bar and the rear anti-role bar are in.
I have put this step-by-step install together so you can see you can do it at home.


Starting of with the Strut bar install.
1. Take your time and don’t rush, lie out your parts and plan to take one to two hours. There will be times where a second set of hands will come in very handy, so plan.
2. Place the strut bar over the locating holes that are already in your strut housing. You will see that they mate up nicely.

3. On the driver side you will see that a plastic bracket is not letting the strut bar seat flush with the housing. You will need to make the bracket, I used a grease pencil where I needed to grind away.

4. Unbolt the bracket and carefully grind away the area you marked. Place the bracket back in place, but do not tighten down. Test fit the strut bar to see if it seats flush. If everything fits then bolt the bracket down tightly.

5. Ok this is where you are going to need a second set of hands and it helps if they’re small.
6. Take a supplied bolt and washer and reach up your wheel-well. By just using feel slide the bolt through the mounting hole in your strut tower. The second person will place the Strut bar over the bolt you are holding in place and carefully place a nut over the bolt. This is where small fingers will help, it’s a tight fit where the nut goes.

7. Hand tighten only, repeat step #6 for other side.

8. Tighten down the nuts and wipe clean, job is done.


Rear Anti-role Bar.
1. Take your time and don’t rush, lie out your parts and plan to take two to three hours. You are going to need a spring compressor, jack-stands and a jack for this job.
2. Jack up the rear of the car and place one jack-stand on either side of the body, us the factory recommended positions. Give your self a comfortable working height.

3. Pull off both rear wheels.
4. Using a spring compressor, compress the rear spring on one side.

5. Remove the bolt that holds the rear shock in place, this will allow the rear end to drop. Gently remove the spring and rubber mounts.

6. Place in the mounting ring and bolts that are supplied.

7. Take the Anti-role bar and tie it to the underside of the rail. This will help support the Bar and make it easier to mount.

8. Hand tighten the bar to the mounting bolts, this will align the mounting bracket.

9. Tighten down the free third bolt on the mounting ring to hold it in place and then remove the bar again. (it will be in the way when mounting the spring back in.

10. Replace the rear spring and reattach the shock first, before decompressing the spring.

11. Now swing over to the other side and repeat steps 4 through 10.
12. Attach the Anti-role bar to the mounting bolts on either side, hand tighten only. If everything mates up (which it should), go a head and tighten.

So that’s pretty well it for the install. I hope this will help you out.

Racing Stripe

By LarsBud

Well I went and add a black racing stripe to my car. My good friend Paul is one of the best painters/air brushers in town and he came over and painted my car for me.

1/ Find the center and mark off the location with a marker, hood, roof, hatch, evenly split the width of the stripe and mark with a marker.
2/ Using pin-striping mask off tape, lay it down over marker spots, make sure to keep your tape straight.
3/ Step back and look over your taping to check if every thing looks straight and the hood, roof and hatch all are lined up.
4/ If every thing looks good mask off using a wider paint masking tape and then cover everything you don’t want painted. (over spray gets into every little spot)
5/ Sand lightly with 400 grit paper all areas being painter.
6/ Clean all to be painted areas with a paint-prepper, you don’t need to apply to much.
7/ You are ready to paint, remember to apply light coats of paint. This will prevent runs from happening. We only needed to coats of black.
8/ Ones the your paint is dry you will need to apply your clear coat, again apply thin even coats. Allow time for it to be tacky before applying your next coat. We add three coats of clear mixed with black to get the look we wanted.
9/ Ones the clear is tacky you need to remove the tapped off inner stripes or you will have problems with lifting. Pull the tape back at about 45°, you have to be careful not to touch your tacky clear or you will leave marks. (these marks can be buffed out in a week or two)
10/ Then remove the rest of the masked off areas, again be careful not to touch the fresh paint.
11/ After clear has set remove any inner masked off badges to prevent paint damage.
12/ Next day wash off your car to remove any over spray dust, but be careful around the new paint. (Clear takes 2 weeks to reach it’s full hardness.)


We may be still adding ghost flames into the stripe using candy apple red.

Thanks Paul!



Adding Red Trim to the doors.

By LarsBud

Door-panel Makeover:



Lots of people out there are painting there interiors these days, but I am a little more old school so I have opted to go with vinyl.

I am staying with the Red and Black theme for Red Max.

Using Vinyl does require you to tare the door panels down to the individual components, but at the end you have a factory finish.

I have added a few pick of the rework. It took me 6 hours to do the job, but I do have training in door and seat work. This is something that does require time and planning if you are a first timer.



Projects

By LarsBud

On this page I am going to post the upgrades and any changes I do to Red Max.

I will post a pic of before and after, if you have any questions please feel free to leave me a message.

I was big into restoring and building show bikes for years and won a few shows. So you will be seeing me do little things that the normal Joe would never see, but if you are doing show bikes/cars every little thing counts. Red Max may never see a show, but who knows.



1/ The interior door pull-handles:

I look into the cup and see a screw, god that looks like “*”!



I have some pieces of black leather lying around the house and some art-board.

Using some thin cardboard from an old shoebox (thanks honey), you make a template that fits down into the bottom of the pull handle. One for the front door and one for the rear, you can use the same templates for the other side, but do not forget to make a mirror image when tracing out on the art-board.

Trace the patterns out onto the art-board and us an exacta-knife to cut out. I then cut out the leather larger then the templates, will trim back after gluing the art-board and leather together. After gluing the leather to the art-board (I used white glue) trim the leather to within 2mm (1/8th’) of the edge, this will allow for any gaps from showing.

Place into pull-handle and work leather edges in, and there you go. Clean, neat and looks great!
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