AS SEEN IN OUR DIESEL WORLD JULY 2026 ISSUE – Buy Now!

Race-Proven Durability from the Big Leagues

Something that we love to see brought into the diesel world is innovation, so today we’re bringing you some race car-inspired technology by Fluidyne High Performance in the form of its radiators. The truck we’re working on is a past Diesel World cover truck from The Diesel Shop in Locust Grove, Oklahoma, but who’s to say that a high-caliber build can’t be further upgraded?

Even though the front clip of this F-350 says it’s a newer truck, you can rest assured that we are installing the correct radiator on this 2017 6.7L Power Stroke. This radiator fits 2017-2019 F-250/350 models.

These Fluidyne radiators are the only extruded tube units on the market for diesel trucks as of right now, which is the same design and technology that Fluidyne has been using in its NASCAR radiators for decades—perfectly curated for the diesel scene. They’re fully TIG-welded, and feature the thickest material on the market. The competition takes a piece of flat plate, bends it into the shape of a tube, and laser welds it, making them susceptible to failure. Fluidyne’s tubes, on the other hand, are made through a process called ‘extrusion’. Tube extrusion is a manufacturing process that forces heated metal or molten plastic through a die, using a mandrel to create a hollow center, forming continuous tubing. This technique ensures precise outer diameters and wall thicknesses, which is the extra durability that Fluidyne provides.

This installation is a time-consuming affair, so let’s get right into it!

Step 1: Recover the A/C System

Before touching anything up front, the A/C system must be properly discharged using a certified recovery machine. Venting refrigerant is illegal   and unsafe, so this step needs to be done at a shop if you don’t have the equipment.

Once the system is fully evacuated, you can safely disconnect A/C components later in the process.

Step 2: Drain the Cooling System

Place a drain pan under the truck and open the radiator drain valve (petcock). Remove the degas bottle cap to allow the system to vent and fully drain.

Step 3: Remove Intake and Upper Components

Remove the air intake tube and airbox assembly

Disconnect the upper radiator hose

Remove the degas bottle (coolant reservoir)

Unplug any sensors attached to the radiator or fan shroud

These steps clear the working room up top.

Step 4: Remove

Remove the fan and shroud together or separately depending on clearance

This step opens up the front of the engine bay significantly.

Step 5: Separate the Cooling Stack

Now you’re getting into the tight part of the job.

Unbolt the upper core support brackets

Disconnect the A/C condenser lines (since the system is discharged)

Carefully separate the condenser from the radiator (do not bend the fins)

In some cases, the intercooler may need to be loosened or moved slightly

You’re essentially “unstacking” the cooling pack enough to slide the radiator out.

Step 6: Remove the Radiator

With everything loose:

Lift the radiator straight up and out of the lower mounts

Be mindful of remaining fluid and any wiring still attached

At this point, inspect the rubber isolators and mounts. Replace if worn.

Step 7: Install the New Radiator

Installation is the reverse of removal, but take your time.

Lower the new radiator into place, ensuring it seats properly in the lower mounts

Reattach the condenser and any brackets

Reconnect transmission cooler lines

Reinstall fan, shroud, hoses, and intake components

Torque fasteners to factory spec where applicable.

Step 8: Refill and Bleed the Cooling System

Refill with the correct coolant. A vacuum fill tool is highly recommended to prevent air pockets in the 6.7L cooling system.

Let the truck idle and come up to temp with the cap off, topping off as needed.

Step 9: Recharge the A/C System

Once everything is buttoned up, the A/C system needs to be vacuumed down and recharged to factory spec. Again, this process requires proper equipment, so plan accordingly.